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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.